Sunday, December 12, 2010

Guest Blog from Ebba



So we ventured out into san Francisco early this morning, explored the market and town hall, before rushing back to the hotel to don full singlets, thermal tops and pants, jumpers, raincoats, beanies, gloves, scarfs and thicker socks! It is a lot colder than we first thought!

This city is incredible. The streets are diverse, the malls are shiny and huge, Chinatown is full of amazing stuff and the bayside is full of life, even on this cold and extremely wet day. Our room is draped in drying layers of clothes without which we would have been utterly miserable.

We wandered the city, especially Chinatown, before catching the ferry with “Captain Nemo”’s sightseeing voiceovers sharing all sorts of facts about Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge, which we went right under! A beautiful if soggy city.

Leaving my heart in San Francisco


I know why it is easy to leave your heart in San Francisco it is Ahhhahahmazing! America is actually lot like the sitcoms that I spend so much of my time watching. All it has done since we got here is rain which is fine, it almost adds to our idea of what a cold American December should be. We arrived in LAX and I was pumped. Mildly worried about US passport control and customs as we had been told by that they could be kinda tough. But the guy we had was very cool! He asked us who Paul Kelly is because of Girly’s shirt and chatted up a storm! It was almost fun. After getting our luggage and re checking it for domestic flights we went through for domestic connection to San Francisco. I left my pump on which isn’t even picked up by the Australian machines. Here it was and I had to have what they call a full body pat down. I am already down to my t-shirt and jeans I am taken to a particular area and a woman officer asks me if I have done this before. “kinda “ I say “I have been frisked before” She laughed “ Honey this is a lot more personal then that” They touch you up and down and all over. I felt safe but it was very odd. They have a new machine too, it pretty much removes your clothes and examines you. It is Threat level orange one below the top that is red. We get through, I realise how very tired I am.

When we get there we catch a shuttle to our hotel called the Good Hotel (which was very good, the cutest thing was that on the ceiling when you switched of the light to go to sleep it said ‘goodnight!’) The next day we were determined to see as much of san fran as possible we walked down the street to the town hall. It has the biggest dome in the country and has lots of gold it was very pretty. We were mildly accosted by crazy people which are everywhere in the neighbourhood we were staying in. A particularly vibrant person came up to us and told us “they are going to take our eyes and our teeth.” Yesh..... It was raining so heavily we had to run back home to get warmer clothes! After putting on lots of clothes and rain coats we headed back into to the town we walked to union square we went to urban outfitters a really cool store and I brought some cool boots really cheap then we went to Macey’s, a huge department store here. Over six stories high with a huge chandelier then we got on our tourist bus of the city it was raining so heavily the top story of the bus was leaking water. WE headed into china town and brought lots of trinkets. Everything is very cheap in the states and we also got amazing dim sum after that we got back on our bus and went to pier 39. A huge shopping district right on the bay as we were going to get a ferry across the bay. We saw lots of beautiful sites and ate a yummy crepe after that it was on to the ferry we saw Alcatraz and the golden gate bridge it was freezing and misty! My favourite bit was the seals that live on the docks. After that we wandered the dock area but it was dark and felt quite late. We caught a bus to little Italy were we had amazing pasta and then walked home via huge malls....I was weakened into buying some makeup we brought some books from borders and it was off home for us. Very tired we clambered into bed. Goodnight said the ceiling.

The next day we headed down to the Castro for our gay rights tour. We saw our tour guide got coffee from some lovely camp guys and headed down to the Harvey Milk Plaza there we heard some of his history again. We wondered the streets seeing all the sites and it did really make you feel proud and safe. After grabbing some Singapore noodles for lunch we hopped on a trolley to the Californian Academy of science it is in golden gate park. we met an Australian girl there and walked and talked for a bit she had just broken up with her boyfriend and was staying in the height-Ashbury part of San Francisco for 6 weeks. We walked for a long time and we were very tired and cold then we finally arrived we ate our lunch with the reindeer and saw a wonderful planetarium show. then we wondered around the aquarium and the natural history museum. We were so tired but we did make to the amoeba record store which was great. Huge! We brought a few cds but we were dazed with tiredness.

I loved the atmosphere of San Francisco and fell in love with the city right away! But we didn’t have much time. We brought huge bowls of pho for dinner which we ate in our room watching cartoon network. Then we packed our bags organised to post some things home, wrote some postcards and slept. The next day it was off to San Francisco airport for our flight to Washington DC to stay with Girly’s Uncle and Aunty and her cousins a 6 year old youngin, a 16 year old, and a college student (who we sadly missed as he was at said college) all boys who are lovely. The flight was long I watched American tv I watched, 16 and pregnant, a quality reality tv show( bahaha) and the scariest show I have ever seen called BridalPlasty where these woman compete for plastic surgery and dream weddings. It was horrid and so so addictive me and girly were hooked!

When we arrived the mother of girly’s uncle very kindly picked us up and took us to Thai food it was lovely to be with family. Then we met their nanny from El Salvador she was very friendly and talkative we spoke for a long time about the school systems here and in Australia. The lovely uncle and aunt came home, we met briefly and headed to bed around 12am so tired. The next day we met the littlest of the boys, who is very cute and middle boy quite the polite and quiet teenager, who has a lot going on, he went off to tutor underprivileged kids in math so we didn’t see a lot of him the house is a lot bigger then Australian houses and in a very affluent neighbourhood (to give you an idea the Kennedys have a house here). The property is surrounded by parkland and is stunning.

We decorated the Christmas tree and listened to carols it all felt very right and cold and Christmassy. Then we went for a walk with aunty through the woods to a frozen pond with Dixie their very lovely and old black lab. It was wonderful and the walk was so picturesque although there was a lot of brambles and thorns to watch out for. We saw lots of white tailed deer and then an arrow shaft were someone had shot one. It was nasty with barbs on the end and all bloody it was horrible. You are not allowed to hunt on the county land and lots of people walk there so it’s not good. There is a deer overpopulation problem and as many of their predators which are key stone species are dead they are causing heaps of road accidents and killing lots of people. So something has to be done and hunting should occur but it’s not very safe there to do so.

That night we went to a wonderful Korean place for dinner with a grill in the table top and then off to the botanical garden which has wonderful light displays. It was 2 above freezing and we were rugged up to the nines, but it was much fun. I skyped home and didn’t get to sleep until 12am. A bad idea considering the fact we had a church service early the next morning the church choir and orchestra was beautiful and the Cantata written for Christmas was very joyful. I couldn’t help but think of Tim Minchin’s Christmas song, the experience was none the less lovely and moving. Girly almost fell asleep twice though. We got bagels (me egg bacon and cheese) and coffees after picking up middle child from a party, who looked a little worse for wear. Then headed home. I played banjo kazoie with littlest on 64 which was a lot of fun and watch some kids tv. Tonight we are off to a huge mansion for a carolling party. This place is owned by the people who control the pastry section of star bucks up the east coast. Very surreal for me I feel like a little fish in a huge sea. Family is very welcoming though and I am so lucky.

Tomorrow girly and I are off to down town Washington to see the Smithsonian institute and Washington monument. The day after we have a Whitehouse tour. No cameras or bags allowed so I’ll remember what I can for you all. The next day we are off to Boston to see another branch of the family. America is kind of like the movies, big, full, rich with life in your face and addictive. I love it here it is romantically cold. What I love the most is when I close my eyes on a cold winter night my eyelids are cold upon my eyes and the air is crisp in my lungs. Wintertime in America is an experience I won’t forget.


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Tuesday, December 7, 2010

LAX (reader's digest version - for the Ians among us)

So here I am sitting in a airport lounge near our gate for our flight to san fransisco. My stomach is full of my first American dining experience at an American seafood diner. The meals are huge!!!

The flight from Fiji to LA was thankfully unremarkable. We thought we were going to have the whole row of four seats to ourselves but a big obnoxious American woman came and sat now next to us, she was angry because she didn’t want to be at the back of the plane because “it’s bumpy! It’s loud! The seats don’t go back (they do). ” Thankfully she fell asleep straight away and stayed that way the whole flight.

Beachcomer Island resort sells itself as a party island for young folk on schoolies or a gap year trip. The island is stunning so small it only takes 7min minutes to walk the circumference the water is crystal blue and you can see the fish and the reef even if you are just paddling in the shallows. The island has a on the beach bar with sand for a floor and a thatched roof above you, you are welcomed to the island by men with ukuleles singing in sarongs. It’s tacky but something you really enjoying when your there. The air is thick with the cries of BULA! From every staff member on the island.

The only think that took away from it was the guests one of the staff told us that a group of 270 uni students were staying all around us are blonde Aussie girls and boys so burnt they look like cray fish being charming with laconic aussie syntax, “ the water is like so F*ing beautiful we should totally take a picture of us drinking in the water!”

When swimming over the reef it is so close, less than half a metre away, I was mildly freaked out, not wanting to hurt the coral. The coral itself looks dull, and damaged, with two snorkling trips a day not including scuba and Snuba( a new helmeted kind of diving) it is no wonder. There are small fluorescent blue fish and large orange and blue fish. Bright blue star fish and huge orange bulbish sponges. Ep swears she saw a clown fish (or a Nemo fish as she has dubbed it) another couple said they saw a small reef shark. I had a hypo and hopped out early to chill on the boat. The water was literally glittering in the sunshine. Back on the island a reggae band plays covers of the eurythmics and me and ep spent the day in the shallows of the water or in the bar drinking free beers (me) and not so free chocolate and banana milkshakes( girly).

. The sun sets magnificently in Fiji and is seen is oranges and pinks and mauves as the rain clears. The bus is filled with laughter as the staff who worked on the island are dropped off at their homes on the way back into town. We are dropped of at the bus depot near the markets, people selling fish, and fruit yell from their stalls, the taxi drivers call out to us and I hear “bob marley bob marley!” as drivers try to attract my be-dreaded attention.

Every day is a lazy Sunday in Fiji and people operate in ‘Fiji Time’ we did little to nothing wondering into town, swimming, reading by the pool, playing cards and watching movies. So relaxing.

I will remember Fiji as the place where we found our travelling minds and bodys, where all is unfamiliar and people are deteremined to make sure you are having a good time. Everyone says Bula in the street people come up to shake your hand and say hello and to welcome you back again. Fijians are infectiously cheeky and are constantly laughing and smilling so you feel warm inside. Fiji was not what me and girly had envisioned ...in ways it was better and in others worse certainly memorable relaxing and heartwarming.

I hopped of the plane at LAX.....

So here I am sitting in a airport lounge near our gate for our flight to san fransisco. My stomach is full of my first American dining experience at an American seafood diner. The meals are huge!!! And I almost went to order a corona before I remembered I am underage here. The flight from Fiji to LA was thankfully unremarkable. Ep and I slept most of the time, and watched Toy Story 3 for at least three hours, I started it twice and finished it once and I watched it once on the way over - there isn’t a lot of choice of what to watch on Air Pacific so it was Toy Story, Twilight or some horrible Christmas movie called Santa’s Angel. We were in the back of the plane in the last row which was okay as we had a little more space got served first. We thought we were going to have the whole row of four seats to ourselves but a big obnoxious American woman came and sat now next to us, she was angry because she didn’t want to be at the back of the plane because “it’s bumpy! It’s loud! The seats don’t go back (they do). ” Thankfully she fell asleep straight away and stayed that way the whole flight. Before the flight we sat in the tiny airport in Nadi, looking at the rain on the green surroundings for the last time. I had to take a Clexane needle for my anti-thrombin III and was surprised at how much the nasty thing hurt! It felt nothing like a diabetic needle and ached for a while after so I was feeling slightly sooky.

We were woken up the morning we had to leave Fiji by room service asking if we wanted our room cleaned we politely declined as I rolled out of bed, my shoulders seared with pain and I remembered just how sun burnt I had got on Beacomer Island and the boats that took us to and from. Beachcomer was a cheaper one for us to visit and had many events like snorkling and fishing feeding included in the fee I was under a naive impression that paragliding would be free or cheap but sadly not so. Beachcomer Island resort sells itself as a party island for young folk on schoolies or a gap year trip. The island is stunning so small it only takes 7min minutes to walk the circumference the water is crystal blue and you can see the fish and the reef even if you are just paddling in the shallows. The island has a on the beach bar with sand for a floor and a thatched roof above you, you are welcomed to the island by men with ukuleles singing in sarongs. It’s tacky but something you really enjoying when your there. The air is thick with the cries of BULA! From every staff member on the island. The only think that took away from it was the guests one of the staff told us that a group of 270 uni students were staying all around us are blonde Aussie girls and boys so burnt they look like cray fish being charming with laconic aussie syntax, “ the water is like so F*ing beautiful we should totally take a picture of us drinking in the water!” I overheard another charming conversation about the skin colour of the staff on the island “ some of this men are like, soo hansome but they are soo dark but like the one that serves us lunch, he is sooo good looking he looks European...” Girly and I retreated to the quiet shallows trying to disown our age and nationality.

Snorkling was odd. We were taken out in glass –bottomed boats by a very uninterested staff member he reaches the place he deems fit and says “go” we all look around, what just jump in?“how deep is it?” one of us sheepishly ask? “not too deep” he says “can we safely jump in” another says “yes” was his short reply. We crept to the edge like penguins waiting for someone to go. I am the second. The water is warm though in the troughs between the reef are at least 7 metres deep. When swimming over the reef it is so close, less than half a metre away, I was mildly freaked out, not wanting to hurt the coral. The coral itself looks dull, and damaged, with two snorkling trips a day not including scuba and Snuba( a new helmeted kind of diving) it is no wonder. There are small fluorescent blue fish and large orange and blue fish. Bright blue star fish and huge orange bulbish sponges. Ep swears she saw a clown fish (or a Nemo fish as she has dubbed it) another couple said they saw a small reef shark. I had a hypo and hopped out early to chill on the boat. The water was literally glittering in the sunshine. Back on the island a reggae band plays covers of the eurythmics and me and ep spent the day in the shallows of the water or in the bar drinking free beers (me) and not so free chocolate and banana milkshakes( girly). Girly and I were worried we would be sad to head back towards the mainland and our hotel in Lautoka as the islands are so stunning but as more and more drunk blondes emerged and the duff duff music grew louder we were happy to hop on to our little transfer boat to the main ferry back to the docks. It is an hour bus ride back to Lautoka and the rain pours down around us. Sides of the road are mearly suggestions here and the bus driver casually swerves and overtakes despite the downpour.

Children play barefoot soccer on muddy pitches and cattles with birds resting on their backs catching flys graze by the sugar cane rails. The sun sets magnificently in Fiji and is seen is oranges and pinks and mauves as the rain clears. The bus is filled with laughter as the staff who worked on the island are dropped off at their homes on the way back into town. We are dropped of at the bus depot near the markets, people selling fish, and fruit yell from their stalls, the taxi drivers call out to us and I hear “bob marley bob marley!” as drivers try to attract my be-dreaded attention. We stumble home terrifically tired and watch some horrid movie called my best friend’s girl ( the male lead is called Tank...you get the idea). The next day after our wake up call and our morning fix of Ben 10 which is our new favourite show we set out into Lautoka one last time before our flight. We ate and wondering the shops people come up to say Bula and shake our hands ask us where we are from, a regular occarance. Another bob marley fan approaches me shakes my hand says if i want any “bob marley” he grins and rubs his hands together I should come to him. Smile and hurry off, suddenly very interested in the Fiji shot glasses in the window. I love that in Fiji people have big hair, i buy at least 8 hair ties that are actually big enough for my dreads.

After our trip to the shops we have a glourously long swim soaking in the warm before the cold of USA. Then we get down to packing.

The rest of the holiday was mildly eventful since I last wrote but mostly just restful. So as i sat writing my last post i noticed that my legs seemed to have little bites on them, lots of little small ones...no matter I’ll just move inside, they were still annoying me by dinner but I was so happy be out of our previous horrid hostel and in such a nice place. I noticed a few more bumps on my arms as we played cards on our little porch. So that night we tucked ourselves into our lovely big room with our crisp nice sheets. I wake up with arms swollen to a point where I can’t move I look down, my legs are all blotchy and so is my stomach arms and face... I relise I have had an allergic reaction to something. Wake up the Girly...she calls reception who after much trouble gets us a cab to the Hospital. The Hospital is small and run down. The Emergency entrance has two directions emergency treatment and mortuary...lovely me thinks. I head in two nurses look me over. “an allergic reaction defiantly you have hives we will just get you a national health care card and a doctor will give you a shot and a prescription is your car waiting?” “er no i mumble” “oh dear you will be hard pressed to get a taxi, the police harass and assult the taxi drivers that drive between the hours of 1am and 6am....it’s not good we all fear for our lives here... you can just sleep here if you like.” Me and girly mumble thanks. The doctor is very quiet. “probably a mosquito bite carrying some bacteria you are allergic to.” Gives me a jab and leaves. Out of nowhere our taxi arrives we thankfully tumble into it and soon we are back in bed. I slept for the whole of the day, Girly leaving me notes as she went for swims or walks to town. By the next day I was nearly mended and we relaxed.

Every day is a lazy Sunday in Fiji and people operate in ‘Fiji Time’ we did little to nothing wondering into town, swimming, reading by the pool, playing cards and watching movies. So relaxing. On the Friday we had a bqq at the hotel amazing food and a weird island root vegetable that was supposed to be like potato me and Girly gave it our best shot but in the end the texture of home made papermache was a bit much....hid it under the remains of the meat and salad. I will remember Fiji as the place where we found our travelling minds and bodys, where all is unfamiliar and people are deteremined to make sure you are having a good time. Everyone says Bula in the street people come up to shake your hand and say hello and to welcome you back again. Fijians are infectiously cheeky and are constantly laughing and smilling so you feel warm inside. Fiji was not what me and girly had envisioned ...in ways it was better and in others worse certainly memorable relaxing and heartwarming.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Bula From Fiji

02/12/10

Bula From Fiji!

Hello all, I am writing this sitting on the porch area of our hotel room in Lautoka, Fiji. I always thought I would write a blog from home that would be dry and witty and all that you want from a blog but have found that I never have the time or that when I do I have nothing to say. Anyhow I figure I can use this blog I created to keep my lovely friends informed as to what me and my girly have been up to.

I have discovered I am not very good at being on holiday, when I am not freaking out about a) the horrible hostel we were in b) the horrible staff c) the cost of this holiday d)being so far from home e) being a young woman who most days feels she is still too young to travel by herself without her mother dearest. I am bored. What does one do on holiday? We can go into Lautoka town just a two minute walk from our hotel but I do feel like a tiny white woman last time the two men who seemed far too nice tried to sell us carved wooden daggers with our names carved into them I stoped mine just in time, I don’t just feel harassed when it happens I actually feel scared which i know is silly but there you go, an irrational fear. When we are not in town we can swim in the pool, which is stunning if a little empty, There are people here, although most seem to be from conferances from other parts of Fiji or families, not youngins.

Lautoka is a town which is seen as the second capital, it is the main producer of sugar in the pacific and the air is thick with the smell of sugar cane, there is a small train that runs by the side of the road and carries the sugar cane to the mill near our hotel and then it is loaded onto the ships that sit at the huge dock about 300 metres from our hotel. As such the beautiful beach view we have seems to be just it seems it is not really what people swim in so it’s the pool for us. There are lots of feral cats and dogs in the town at least they arnt in hotel as they were in the hostel we were staying in but it does make me a little sad when see the skinny little things. All the people smell of coconut and palm oil and are always calling out Bula! A hello of sorts. There seems to be a large Hidu population here with many of the cap drivers sporting woodern icons of ganesha and woman with beautiful bindis on their heads. Tomorrow we will have lunch in the town which will be alot cheaper but I think we may also get slighty harressed to buy trinkets. A cab driver told us to tell people that we visit oftern and that we are travelling with friends to avoid being pestered too much which seems to have helped. Now we just have to find a balance of being nice and not so nice that they have time to sell us something, lucky they find my name so hard or I am sure i would have a woodern carved sword sitting on my bed right now!

Our first night in Fiji wasn’t exactly what we wanted and I was being a big sook but after we booked alternate accomadation for the next week I relaxed. We went down to the beach chairs with our books and read, me in bikini’s and a light top only problem is having not slept at all on our crampt flight over I was totally exhausted i was soon slumbering, as was ma girl the waves gently lapping at the beach edge, and as the sun moved up the beach I was slowly roasted on the one side i was showing, my left leg looks ridculas red and mildly swollen with white bloches where my hand was, and my right leg has a very red shin gaurd. Look very silly but totally deserve it as it didn’t occur to me to slip slop slap. When I woke with a arm cramp it seemed that a huge yellow cross and flag had been placed down 3 metres from me. Then I realised that very shortly some one would be landing via parachute after sky diving from a plane we waited along the beach with a crowd and then sure enough two yellow blips appeared above us. They grew larger and there where two tandum jumpers. They both looked happy with themselves girly and I were both imperessed and a little green at the thought of it all. You get 60 seconds of freefall! Yeah! No thanks I like my feet on the ground for the most part!

The good thing about our old hostel was that is was next to a wonderful one called the sumglers cove hostel. They were so nice to us even though we were not staying with them as they were booked out. We ate at their restraint twice and watched their provided entertainment, we got to see hula dancing and other wonderful pacfic islander dancing at night with the beach behind us the sun setting behind us and a pinacolda in my hand it was spectacular. We also got to see men do fire twirling and dancing, a old drunk Fijian woman wondered up and started haggling, telling them and us that fire twirling was not Fijian, it was Polynesian, she said she knew where she came from and she wasn’t ashamed. My girly and I had a discussion afterwards about authenticity of culture when travelling to tourist areas like Fiji, I said I couldn’t help but feel I was a western imperial person who had come to see how the savages live, Girly said that Fiji is now a tourist country, much of its economy is from tourist dollars and that much of cultural practises are still being performed and learnt because people will pay for a ‘cultural experience’.

It is odd though, now we are staying in such a lovely hotel for very little and we get so much for it, I am constantly reminded of my privilege, as I should be. We have two double beds in our room and a TV that has BBC world news , the cartoon network, a movie channel that plays obscure movies and a bollywood channel, it is pretty great, between that and reading or playing cards that is pretty much all we do. The internet in the hotel costs 8 FJ dollars an hour which isn’t a huge amount but it isn’t cheap either.I guess I have to get into what they call ‘Fiji Time’ which basically means take it slow...all the same my brain is finding it hard to relax. I am going to get a massage this week I think, and girly and I plan on going to a island called beachcomer island to snorkel and play watersports like kayaking which girly is a big fan of and paragliding which I am thinking of doing...bet I chicken out though. I don’t really know what I will do with myself for the week....anyhoo I think I will go for a swim now or check the movie channel....

Bula!